N.T's Capital

Darwin, Darwin, Darwin... where do I begin.

Your beaches are beautiful, yet filled with deadly nasties like saltwater crocodiles and box jellyfish.

You are the Northern Territory's largest city, yet your city centre is barely three streets wide.

Your sunsets are straight from heaven, yet your hungry insect population make them hard to enjoy.

You boast relaxing caravan parks in tranquil rainforest settings, yet they're all built under the flight path of your airport that has no time restrictions on it's flights.

You rave about your stunning warm climate, yet lying awake at night in 30 degree heat is not all that pleasant.

You claim to be multi-cultural, yet there's plenty of injustice on your streets.

But boy do you have some happening markets at Mindel Beach, with hundreds of different stalls and hundreds of different freshly cooked foods to sample and hundreds (and hundreds) of tourists. Quite the shock to the system after not having seen this many people since Perth (just look at Luke's face)!

Yes, Darwin, you are a land of contrast and contradictions. The Tonkin jury is still out on you.

Yours in the great outdoors,

Odette

Litchfield: A Water Wonderland

The drive up to Darwin from Katherine is an easy three hours and if you plan your trip right, you can drop in and see two of the most amazing National Parks in Australia on your way. It's still super hot up here, so we decided to stop over at Litchfield National Park on the way up to Darwin, leaving Kakadu for the way back.

Litchfield National Park is kinda like Wet-n-Wild on the Queensland Goldcoast (minus the pricey entry cost, the scores of people and the million dollar water bill to power all the water slides). The drive into the park is a little deceiving, with tons of spot fires along the sides of the roads raging and the dry bush scattered with termite mounds - hardly the lush wonderland we have been told about. But keep driving. The pockets of paradise are just up the road.


The first is the amazing Magnetic Termite mounds, that look like some kind of spooky cemetery. There are two different types of termite nests at this site, some over five metres high and all aligned north-south, apparently to keep the inside of the mound from getting too heated by the sun (which tracks east-west).

But the termite mounds are just a little appetiser for the fun times ahead at the Blueys Rockholes and Florence Falls. The cascading freshwater is soooo refreshing and I didn't think about getting eaten by a crocodile once! (There are freshies and the odd salt water croc around these parts but apparently freshwater crocodiles are harmless... still, they've got sharper teeth than me and I bet a nastier bite as well!).

You can check out the beautiful Florence Falls from the top and then brave the steep climb to the bottom for a dip. It's definitely worth it - the clear water and thrill of swimming right under the thundering waterfall is just awesome! The walk up hundreds of steps back to the car park? Not so awesome...

Yours in the great outdoors,

Odette

Katherine: Gorges, Snakes, Family and Fun

I was so excited to cross the border into the Northern Territory and make our way up the highway to Katherine. The N.T's third largest town, was a tad surprising (as in rather small) but don't let the lack of shops fool you - this town has something for everyone!

And something extra special for me, as two of my cousins call Katherine home. My cousin Lauren (20) and her little bro Adrian (18) decided to stay put in their home town, when my aunt and uncle and their youngest boy Hamish, made the big move to the NSW mid-north coast late last year. This, after being flooded twice - both times losing everything. We really are glad Lauren and Adrian decided to stay, so we could see a few familiar faces after so many weeks travelling as a twosome.

Odette with Lauren and David

Oh and another cool part of staying with my relos, was getting to see the enormous (and terrifying!) snake collection that belongs to Lauren's boyfriend David. David just happens to be the resident snake man in Katherine, and is contracted by National Parks and Wildlife to catch any unwanted reptiles that make their way into the houses or backyards of local residents. Despite my reservations, David took us to visit his 'shed' where he breeds snakes to sell. What a sight! From huge Olive Pythons to King Browns and Death Adas - this guy has them all. And hundreds of baby ones too. Ew!!! But this job doesn't come without it's downside - David has been bitten tons of times by his snakes - and twice by a Death Ada. Scary stuff...









Once in Katherine, you have to head out to Nitmiluk National Park and see the beautiful Katherine Gorge. There are a bunch of Aboriginal artworks in the caves nearby and the view from the top escarpment, is magic.

The hot thermal springs, about 5 minutes from the town centre in Katherine, are a must-see as well. A constant 30 degrees, this natural spring is complete with waterfalls and the best bit? No crocs in sight. Phew!

No trip to Katherine is complete without a visit to the local Katherine Museum, where you can read all about the colourful history of this town and watch a film and see the pictures of the incredible destruction that the floods of 1974 and 1998 caused.

The 1998 Australia Day flood bought the already full Katherine River up another 21.3 metres and the town was declared a natural disaster. Check the picture of the bridge below and where the water rose to. Yikes!

Yours in the great outdoors,

Odette

Territory Time!

Yes! We made it! Western Australia is officially the biggest state in the WORLD! After a few months in W.A, we were beginning to think we would never see the border of another state again, but here it is! After adjusting our clocks an hour and a half, we are all but Northern Territorians now, ready to fearlessly battle crocs with our bare hands, tuck into a wild camel steak on the BBQ, add words like 'mob' and 'struth' to our vocabulary and....

...finally get to see what Jefro the Kombi is made of - on long stretches of road, with nothing but the annoying sound of huge, human eating insects slapping against our windscreen, keeping us from really unleashing the powder of the VW.

On second thoughts, with temperatures still tipping the 40 degree mark (and it's May... is this insane?) we are probably best to drive at a more respectable 90 kilometres an hour in case Jefro blows up and we are stranded in semi-arid terrain, cooking in our own skin while we wait for the next passer-by (Hello? Wolf Creek, anyone?).

Yours in the great outdoors,

Odette

Kimberly Country

When crossing the Kimberlys from Broome to Kununurra, you really do need a four wheeled drive if you want to get amongst the rugged country and take on some of the numerous dirt roads in these parts. The Gibb River Road is a popular trip for tourists with off road cars and we were even told by one enthusiastic Derby local to give the rough road a try in the kombi (this despite the three river crossings, the need to carry all your petrol for some 500km and the crazy creatures like crocs and snakes that inhabit these parts. I think we'll pass this time!). We chose to save Jefro the kombi some heartache and stick to the main highway - which is still an amazing drive through some truly beautiful country.

Here are the highlights from this 1200kms of Oz.

1. The Big One

Luke and I took to the jetty (again) in Derby to try our hand at catching some dinner and it was quite remarkable to watch Luke's fishing improve, literally overnight! On our first try, Luke caught this...

...a moderately sized catfish that we threw back. But on our next day's fishing adventure at exactly the same spot on the jetty, Luke got this...

... a massive 15 kilo dew fish! And then gave it back to the rightful owner, a shaking 60-year-old guy who took 20minutes to pull the fish in on his 30 pound line. Luke caught a similar sized fish for himself though, in his dreams, later that night.

2. Indigenous Art
The Kimberlys is home to some of the most beautiful Aboriginal art in all of Australia, and each little town that we passed through had a few wonderful galleries where you can check out these amazing works. Still in Derby, the Mowanjum Art Gallery is a relatively new centre that has been built in the Mowanjum community, a couple of kilometres out of town. We took the dirt track and ventured out into the community to marvel over the beautiful canvases and hand carved boab seeds. These are a talented people who are internationally acclaimed for their art. A visit to the gallery was inspiring.

3. The Boab Tree

These beautiful trees are unique to Australia's top end and really are an amazingly unusual site. Boab trees scatter the roadside all the way across the Kimberlys and there are a few extra special Boabs that really are worth a look. The Prison Boab in Derby has a sad history - it was apparently used to hold Aboriginal prisoners temporarily, until they could be shipped to Broome in the olden days, where they were forced to work the dangerous job as pearl divers. There are also a bunch of enormous Boab trees in the main park in Kununurra - they're just huge!

4. Living Outback

You can't drive through the Kimberlys without passing through a few iconic outback towns. Fitzroy Crossing, Halls Creek, Turkey Creek and Timber Creek are a few of the places along the way, where you'll need to refuel and take a break. With a predominantly Aboriginal population, these towns offer the chance to purchase your own amazing local art work by many talented Indigineous artists and if you're lucky, you can chat to the local elders about days gone by. But these towns also give you an insight into a side of Australia that's often pushed aside and not spoken enough about. The problems with alcohol in some of these Indigenous communities is appalling and upsetting and both Luke and I were amazed at just how debilitating the disease of alcoholism is, not just for the individual but for whole communities in the outback. It's a huge issue and one that will take a great deal of energy and time to address but after passing through these towns and seeing first hand how a white man's drink is slowly killing our Indigenous people, the solution can't come quick enough.

5. National Parks
There are a bunch of amazing National Parks to explore throughout the Kimberly area - the most famous being Purnululu National Park and it's world hertitage listed Bungle Bungle range. Now we arrived at Kununurra on one of the busiest weekends of the year (Jimmy Barnes had come to town for a huge outback rock concert) so when we called around to book our flight over the Bungle Bungles, they were all booked out for the next few days. Darn it! Without a 4wd, a flight or a tour is the only way you can get into see these amazing bee hive rock formations. We satisfied our bush walking urge by visiting Hidden Valley National Park instead, home to the 'mini Bungle Bungles'. Just 10 minutes from the town centre of Kununurra, this national park was enough to tie us over until the day that we can return to the Kimberlys and see Purnululu for ourselves.

Yours sad to leave Western Australia behind,

Odette

Tourist Ticks In Broome

1. Hire A Scooter

This is the best and most fun way to see Broome! For about $35 a day, you can leave your car behind and hit the road to discover all of Broome's little secrets on a scooter! Everyone rides them in this town, and although they only go a cracking 50km an hour, whizzing around town with the wind in your hair (just) really makes you feel like you're on holidays.

2. Visit The Japanese Cemetery

While you have your scooter, don't forget to stop and check out the some of the amazing Japanese pearling history that is embedded in the town of Broome. The cemetery is a good place to start - it's unusual headstones reveal just how many young men lost their lives while working in the pearl diving industry.

3. Sun Pictures Cinema

This is the oldest outdoor picture garden in the world, which is a pretty cool claim to fame. Watching a film in a sun chair, under the stars, with the smell of frangipanis mixing with your butter-infused popcorn is an experience you'll never forget. We saw The Kite Runner, a film I strongly recommend (but read the book first - it's terrific!).

4. Sanctuary Garden

This peaceful garden is owned by The Cable Beach Resort but anyone can pop in for a peak at the yoga classes going on in this relaxing space, meditate under a Boab tree or marvel at the four metre Buddha made out of quartz.

5. Cable Beach Resort

If you're not lucky enough to be staying at this resort, then at least have a drink at their Sunset Bar and pretend you're minted enough to afford a week in luxury instead having to share a bathroom with 50 other people at the caravan park on the next street around.

6. Blooms Cafe

A Broome institution apparently, this cafe became our favourite haunt and we became daily visitors. The iced coffee is delish, the artworks hanging inside are inspiring and the staff are great. 8/10

Yours playing Broome tour guide,

Odette

Cable Beach Sunset

Watching the sun set at Cable Beach is a must for anyone visiting Broome. Luke and I caught a few when we were in Broome for just over a week, and each time the sun went down, it was just as impressive as the last time we had witnessed it! And we weren't the only ones enjoying the colourful display on Cable Beach - some nights the foreshore resembled New Years Eve in Sydney, with people everywhere - having picnics on the beach, BBQs on the grassy area, swimming, playing football, and you can bet there would be quite a few marriage proposals happening down on the sand, under the setting sun.


The Sunset Bar, which is a part of the beautiful Cable Beach Resort, is a great place to go for a cocktail while you watch the sky transform from bright blue to pink to purple to red. But be prepared to join the crowds - a cheaper option is to take your own bottle of vino down onto the sand and a picnic blanket. How romantic!

And of course, if you want to play the complete tourist, a ride on the famous Cable Beach camels is a must. They walk the beach for an hour every sunset and sunrise and it's about $35 per person. We watched them make their way home each night (their paddock was right near our caravan park) and were impressed at how well they were behaved. No spitters here! I guess they must love their office environment as much as we did.

You'll never see so many budding professional photographers as you will at Cable Beach on sunset (me included!) but there really is something about the place that makes you want to try and capture the moment so you can begin to explain to your friends and family just how beautiful it really is.

Yours watching the sun go down (again!),

Odette